Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Life On The Frontier

In the far southern part of Hidalgo County, New Mexico is the most isolated ghost town I have ever visited. It is (was?) called Cloverdale. To get there, go 11 miles west of Lordsburg on Interstate 10 and then exit off onto Exit 11 (State Highway 338) and head south. It is 25 miles to Animas, a town of 148 people. This is where the state maintained highway ends. However, the road continues past Animas as County Road C-1. About 10 years ago there was a big squabble between the state and private interests over the ownership of the road south of Animas, which resulted in the state giving up the road and turning it over to the county. Until that time, The state highway ended 18 miles south of Animas, at the end of the pavement and it was a county road beyond that. Even earlier, the state highway continued even farther, as a graded, dirt road all the way to Cloverdale and beyond. It once connected with another dirt road that went  east over San Luis Pass, in the
San Luis Mountains just 4 miles from the Mexican border. This east-west road, once called State Highway 79, connected with State Highway 146 (now called State Highway 81) which leads to the most remote border crossing between the United States and Mexico. The former State Highway 79 was a graded dirt road. This road still exists, but it is a private road that is mostly on the property of the Gray Ranch, one of the most biologically diverse places in North America.
  Cloverdale was located a few miles west of this former highway intersection. Cloverdale's isolation proved to be its undoing. As one is driving south of Animas to visit the forlorn remains of this town, one has to negotiate 20 miles of dirt road that is usually in good condition, but sometimes the county does not grade it on a regular basis and, even when it is graded, it contains sharp rocks that have been known to shred the tires of many unwary travelers.
  A visit to Cloverdale requires some preparation. Heck a visit to most areas in New Mexico's Bootheel require advance preparation, but Cloverdale even more so because of the unpaved road, sharp rocks, no water or cell phone signal and  lack of amenities. It is best to stock up on water in Lordsburg or Animas and also take some other drinks, a lunch or snack and make sure your tires are in good condition before visiting Cloverdale. It is also advisable to let someone know, such as Sheriff's Department or the State Highway Patrol, of your whereabouts and your approximate time of return in case something goes wrong in this remote area.

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